A really heavy weight scull

UPDATE May 2014 Another excellent choice for the large and/or heavy sculler is the Bay21. Made in the Pocock factory but marketed and sold by Bay Shells Rowing in Seattle. It is the same length as a Maas Aero but with a different cross section (a deeper "U" profile) and less maximum beam and less "diamond" to its footprint. A Bay21 has more reserve buoyancy in the foredeck and doesn't dig in the foredeck as easily. An advantage is the ability to row through kelp without pulling it up onto the foredeck. I have been rowing my Bay21 for a year and a half almost exclusively. Winning the 21 foot class in local races and having fun, too. I can even beat some of my age group in their Maas 24s. But not the fast competitors in 24s. I wrote this in response to questions posted at "Rowingmasters", a Yahoo! Group: John and Bob, I weigh about 245 lbs. and I have rowed nearly two thousand miles in Peinert Zephyr, Maas Aero, Maas 24, Maas Double, Peinert Dolphin and, most recently, Echo Ace. I have rowed in conditions including 6-foot high whitecap chop and 25-foot high swells on the Pacific. (Thankfully not simultaneously.) My favorite of all is the Maas Double. Of course that requires a second rower. I find it works really well with a lighter sculler in the bow. But, since you are probably interested in singles in open water, my favorite single is the Peinert Dolphin. I also have the most miles on it. Its wider sibling, the Peinert Zephyr can definitely keep a heavy rower safe and comfortable in open water. But it is short, wide and requires a lot of effort to maintain a good speed of about 5.1 -5.3 knots. Other than its lack of speed it's the best one I know for a heavy sculler. Dolphin is much faster than the company's Zephyr. Both Maas 24s and Peinert Dolphins will have their bow ball under water half the time when big scullers use them in open water. In good conditions they can maintain 6.7 knots. In moderate conditions 6.1 is more like it. Their flat foredecks can induce "stalling", "pearling" or "submarining" or whatever it might be called by forcing the bow deeper into the water given the right conditions such as running down-swell or in a heavy chop. This is a very frustrating experience and can easily sap 15% or more of one's average speed. With a little practice, they can both handle large waves and chop while still feeling comfortable and safe. Down-swell one can "surf" these two boats many tens of meters on the front of a big wave getting well over 10 knots temporarily. They have proven themselves in long races such as Monterey Bay Crossing (4hours) and Catalina Crossing (6 hours). They handle similarly but not the same. Maas 24 has more flair to the hull cross-section and its skeg is placed closer to the stern. It is easier to re-board after capsizing. The Echo Ace has a wave-shedding foredeck. With me on it the boat is almost a submarine. Its shape prevents stalling almost completely. Down to maybe 10% of the others', depending on conditions, so there is almost no speed reduction from stalling. But the hull shape makes you pay a price. The plumb stem gets pulled side-to-side in even small waves' circulating fronts. It's no problem directly up- or down-swell. But off either of those directions, the buried bow will cause a great deal of dramatic yaw that makes it hard to handle and it's definitely not relaxing. Since its max beam is the waterline beam there is no flare in the hull cross section to add to stability when it is tipping. My experience is that up to about one foot of chop is okay (the boat really moves quickly). Above that wave height I can only row a few miles before capsizing. Swells of 4 feet are no problem, either, if they are low-frequency. Essentially, it is as challenging to row as a flat water single. Lighter weight rowers probably have fewer challenges with an Ace. I think it is slightly faster than the Dolphin or Maas 24 in good conditions for me. Not one of the singles is optimized to help a big sculler go fast. Even if a scull specifies they can stay afloat and not break in half, and even if the rigging adjustments will fit a large body type, the existing designs have serious shortcomings for such a heavy rower. We have more mass up higher and we move the mass much farther fore-and-aft. We need the oarlocks to be higher because we are taller and the boats' hull is lower in the water. I suggest that we really need a 26 or 27 foot hull length and commensurate strengthening of the hull and rigging. Lots of reserve (above water line) flotation would reduce pitching. However there is no way to accomplish that without a penalty of weight and windage . A proud bow, like those of some surf skis, would help prevent stalling. But, again, not without a weight and windage penalty. Alternatively, the wave piercing concept works until the waves are more than a few feet high (in that case I would rather be above the waves than under them). Since most modern sculls are made in a female mold all scullers' body types are forced to fit into the existing sizes. Fluidesign has made a special and custom flat water racing scull for a 6'6", 250 lbs. sculler. But I don't know if it is rowable on the ocean or if it could withstand the bending and pounding forces. One of the best boats I know of, but have never rowed, is the California Wherry or Cal Wherry. Only a few are in existence . Much heavier than a scull, they can handle brutal conditions and still move fast. They're made of wood and based on a century-old design. Wintech's design is not made to accept a suction bailer without some extensive work. Although the cockpit of the Maas and Peinert are said to be 'self-bailing' , they all hold too much water unless a suction (Anderson) bailer is installed. Peinert and Maas offer them as options. Since every boat is a compromise it is best to tailor the boat type to the conditions you expect to dominate your future open water rowing plans. Trying each of the commercially available boats in multiple conditions is the only way to find out how their handling gets compromised because on flat water they all work fine. If you know another tall or heavy rower who owns one (which means it may be rigged okay for you) then you might request a short loan. Best of luck and best regards, Tim Santa Cruz, CA